How To Cut Acrylic Circles

Cutting a perfect acrylic circle isn’t complicated — but if you pick the wrong tool or rush the process, you’ll end up with cracked edges, melted plastic, or a shape that looks like anything except a circle. Whether you’re crafting a clock face, a display panel, a porthole cover, or a decorative sign, the right method makes every difference between a clean professional cut and a frustrating wreck.

Know Your Material First

Acrylic — also marketed as Plexiglas, Perspex, or PMMA — is a lightweight, shatter-resistant thermoplastic that behaves unlike wood or metal when cut. It conducts heat poorly, which means saw blades and drill bits can melt the surface if you move too fast. It also chips and cracks easily if you apply uneven pressure or use a coarse blade. Understanding these two traits alone will save you more failed cuts than any tool tip ever could.

Two main types exist for most DIY and professional work:

• Cast acrylic — harder, more brittle, cuts cleaner, better for laser cutting, and takes a glossy flame-polished edge beautifully
• Extruded acrylic — softer, slightly more flexible, easier to score, but edges are less glass-clear after cutting

Keep the protective film on the sheet at all times during cutting. It guards against scratches and stabilizes the surface for marking.

Tools & Safety Gear You’ll Need

Before picking a method, gather your essentials. Think of this list as the mise en place of acrylic work — everything in place before the first cut.

Basic toolkit:

• Fine-tip marker or grease pencil
• Metal ruler or straightedge
• Measuring tape and compass
• Masking tape (apply along cut lines to reduce chipping)
• Clamps (critical for preventing vibration)
• Safety glasses (non-negotiable — flying acrylic shards are sharp)
• Gloves
• Fine-tooth blade appropriate for plastics

Optional but highly recommended:

• Compressed air (to cool the cut during jigsawing)
• Lubricant or water (for wet-sanding finish work)
• Sandpaper in grits 400 → 600 → 800 → 1200 for edge polishing

5 Proven Methods for Cutting Acrylic Circles

Each method below suits a different circle size, material thickness, or skill level. Read the comparison table after the methods to choose the best one for your project.

Method 1: Hole Saw Drill Bit (Small Circles, Up to ~150mm)

A hole saw mounted to a drill is the fastest solution for cutting small acrylic circles — think cable pass-throughs, light covers, or decorative inlays. The key trick almost everyone overlooks: run the drill in reverse. Forward rotation grabs the plastic aggressively, often cracking it or yanking the drill sideways. Running it backward grinds and melts through cleanly.

Steps:

1. Mark the center point of your circle on the protective film
2. Place a sacrificial board underneath the acrylic to support the cut and catch the pilot drill
3. Drill a pilot hole at the center using a standard bit
4. Lock the hole saw into position, aligning it with the pilot hole
5. Set your drill to reverse and apply steady, moderate pressure
6. Let the saw grind through at its own pace — don’t force it
7. Lift the acrylic and punch out the disc from the hole saw teeth

Best for: Circles under 150mm | Thickness under 6mm

Method 2: Jigsaw with Fine-Tooth Blade (Medium Circles, Curved Cuts)

A jigsaw is the most accessible power tool for cutting acrylic circles freehand or with a guide. Use a fine-tooth blade labeled for plastics or laminate — never a standard wood blade. Set the speed between 1,500–2,500 SPM to prevent heat buildup.

Steps:

1. Draw your circle onto the protective film using a compass or a string tied to a marker
2. Apply masking tape along both sides of the line to reduce chipping
3. Clamp the acrylic firmly to your work surface — vibration is the enemy of a clean curve
4. Drill a starter hole just inside the waste area so the blade has an entry point
5. Follow the line slowly and steadily; let the blade do the work
6. Pause every 30–40 seconds and use compressed air to cool the cut
7. Sand rough edges after cutting, starting at 400 grit and working up to 1200

Best for: Circles 100mm–500mm | Thickness 3mm–10mm

Method 3: Router with a Circle-Cutting Jig (Precision Circles — Best Method Overall)

If precise, repeatable circles are what you’re after, a plunge router fitted with a circle-cutting jig is the gold standard. The jig works exactly like a compass: one end pivots at the circle’s center, the other holds the router at a fixed radius. Every pass traces the same perfect arc.

Steps:

1. Remove the router base and attach a custom jig arm (a strip of acrylic or thin plywood with a pivot hole and router mounting holes)
2. Determine your desired radius and mark that distance on the jig arm from the center of the router bit
3. Secure the acrylic sheet to a sacrificial backing board using double-sided tape — this prevents the cut-out disc from spinning dangerously when freed
4. Drill a small pivot hole at the circle’s center point; insert a nail or screw to act as the anchor
5. Set the router bit to cut only 1–2mm per pass — multiple shallow passes prevent overheating and cracking
6. Rotate the router clockwise around the pivot in slow, steady arcs
7. Lower the bit slightly after each full rotation until it cuts completely through
8. Remove the cut disc and polish the edge

Best for: Circles of any size with high precision | Thickness 3mm–12mm

Method 4: Dremel or Rotary Tool with a Circle Jig Attachment

A Dremel fitted with a spiral cutting bit and a circle-cutting guide attachment is perfect for smaller circles where a full router feels like overkill. Set the RPM between 15,000–19,000 for 3mm acrylic; for 6mm material, go slower and add a few drops of water or cutting oil to the path to dissipate heat.

Steps:

1. Attach the Dremel circle-cutting guide and center it over your marked pivot point
2. Clamp both the guide and the acrylic sheet — the Dremel creates vibration that compounds quickly without good fixturing
3. Begin cutting in light, circular passes, never plunging deep in a single stroke
4. For 6mm or thicker acrylic, apply water or oil periodically to the cut line
5. Finish edges with wet-sanding

Best for: Circles 30mm–200mm | Thickness 1.5mm–6mm

Method 5: Laser Cutter (Professional & Production-Grade Results)

Laser cutting delivers optically clean, flame-polished edges on acrylic circles straight off the machine — no sanding required on cast acrylic. It’s the method of choice for production runs, intricate designs, or when tolerances need to be tight.

Key settings guidelines:

• Lower power + slower speed = smoother, cleaner edges
• Higher power + faster speed = risk of charring or melting the edge
• Keep the protective paper film on during cutting to reduce flashback burn marks
• Use moderate air assist — too much airflow creates ripple lines along the cut edge
• Always run a test on scrap before cutting your final piece

Best for: Any circle size | Any thickness within machine spec | High volume or intricate shapes

Method Comparison at a Glance

Finishing & Polishing the Edges

A freshly cut acrylic circle edge is usually milky, rough, or micro-chipped. Polishing transforms it from a raw cut into something that looks factory-made.

Wet Sanding

Start with 400-grit sandpaper and work up progressively through 600, 800, and finally 1200 grit. Sand in one consistent direction — circular back-and-forth motions introduce uneven scratches. Add water or a drop of lubricant to prevent the acrylic from overheating on the sandpaper surface. Wipe the edge clean every few passes to check your progress.

Flame Polishing

Flame polishing is the equivalent of a spa treatment for acrylic edges — the heat briefly melts the surface molecules, which then cool into a clear, glassy finish. Use a hydrogen-oxygen torch and pass the flame quickly and evenly along the edge, never holding it in one spot. Too much heat warps the disc or creates bubbles. This technique works best on cast acrylic and straight or gently curved edges.

Buffing Compound

A bench-mounted buffing wheel with plastic polish compound delivers an optically clear edge with minimal effort. It’s ideal after reaching 1200-grit sanding and you want that last 10% of gloss. Clean the acrylic thoroughly afterward to remove any compound residue.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

These errors account for the majority of cracked, chipped, or warped acrylic circles:

• Using a wood blade on acrylic — the wide-set teeth rip rather than slice, causing fractures along the entire cut line
• Cutting too fast with a power tool — heat is the primary cause of edge melting and warping
• Removing the protective film before cutting — the film keeps the surface stable and scratch-free
• Not clamping the sheet — even small vibrations during jigsaw or Dremel work create jagged, wandering cut lines
• Skipping masking tape on the cut line — tape absorbs the micro-chipping that fine-tooth blades still produce
• Drilling the pivot hole directly into finished acrylic (for jig work) — always use a sacrificial backing board so the center hole doesn’t become visible in the final piece
• Taking one deep pass with a router instead of multiple shallow passes — deep single passes crack brittle acrylic from the inside out

Safety You Cannot Skip

Acrylic shavings are razor-sharp and can travel fast. Treat every cutting session like a lab — protection first, shortcuts never.

• Safety glasses every time, without exception
• Cut-resistant gloves when handling freshly cut pieces
• Respirator or N95 mask when using a laser cutter or angle grinder — acrylic fumes are toxic
• Ear protection for any sustained power tool use
• Work in a well-ventilated area, especially during laser cutting or flame polishing

Key Takeaways

• Match the method to the circle size: hole saws for small circles, a router jig for precision, a laser cutter for production-quality or intricate work.
• Heat is your biggest enemy: slow down on power tools, use compressed air or lubricant, and take multiple shallow passes with a router.
• Always leave the protective film on the acrylic until all cutting and edge work is complete.
• Masking tape along the cut line dramatically reduces chipping when using a jigsaw or Dremel.
• Finishing the edge — whether by wet sanding, flame polishing, or buffing — is not optional if you want a professional result.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How do I cut a large acrylic circle without a center hole?
Use a router with a custom circle-cutting jig made from a thin strip of acrylic or plywood. Attach a backing board to your acrylic with double-sided tape, drill the pivot point into the backing board only, and make multiple shallow passes. This way, no pivot hole appears in the finished acrylic disc.

What is the best blade for cutting acrylic circles with a jigsaw?
Use a fine-tooth blade specifically designed for plastics or laminate — look for blades labeled “clean cut” or “for plastics” with 10–14 TPI (teeth per inch). Coarse wood blades cause fracturing. Set the speed to 1,500–2,500 SPM and move slowly to prevent heat buildup along the cut.

Can I cut thick acrylic circles (6mm or more) at home?
Yes, but your method choice matters significantly. A jigsaw at low-medium speed handles 6mm well, though edge quality may require finishing. A plunge router with a circle jig is the most reliable option for clean results on thicker sheets. For 6mm with a Dremel, add water or cutting oil to cool the path — the tool becomes very slow without it.

Why does my acrylic melt or warp when I cut it?
Excessive heat from cutting too fast is almost always the culprit. Slow down your tool speed, use compressed air to cool the blade during cutting, and take multiple shallow passes instead of one deep cut. For a jigsaw, pausing briefly every 30–40 seconds gives the acrylic time to release built-up heat.

How do I get a clear, polished edge on a cut acrylic circle?
Progress through wet sanding grits from 400 → 600 → 800 → 1200, always sanding in one direction and keeping the surface wet. For a glass-clear finish, follow with flame polishing using a torch passed quickly along the edge, or use a buffing wheel with plastic polishing compound.

What is the easiest way to cut a perfect acrylic circle without power tools?
Use a string-and-marker compass to draw your circle, then score the line repeatedly with a sharp utility knife using a curved guide. This only works on thin acrylic (under 3mm) and produces a groove you can deepen with multiple passes, though a truly perfect round break-line is difficult without power tools. For anything precise, a Dremel with a circle guide is the simplest low-investment power tool solution.

Is a laser cutter worth it for cutting acrylic circles?
For one-off small projects, probably not — the machine cost is high. But for repeated production cuts, intricate shapes, or professional-quality edges, a CO₂ laser cutter is unmatched. Cast acrylic in particular produces a naturally flame-polished, crystal-clear edge straight from the laser, eliminating most post-processing work entirely.