Can You Put Paper In Resin

Paper and resin make beautiful companions when you know the rules. Yes, you can put paper in resin, but the process demands careful preparation to avoid bubbles, warping, and discoloration. Whether you’re preserving vintage letters, creating art pieces, or sealing photographs, understanding how paper behaves in liquid resin transforms frustration into success.

The magic happens when you seal the paper first. Think of resin as water—it wants to soak into every fiber. Without protection, your carefully chosen piece becomes a translucent, warped mess within seconds. Unsealed paper absorbs resin like a sponge, creating air pockets that cloud your finished piece and ruin hours of work.

Why Paper and Resin Work Together

Resin preserves paper indefinitely when applied correctly. The combination creates three-dimensional depth that flat lamination cannot match. Light passes through cured resin differently than glass or plastic, giving embedded items an ethereal quality that captivates viewers.

Artists preserve everything from pressed flowers on cardstock to handwritten recipes, ticket stubs, and watercolor paintings. Museums use similar encapsulation techniques to protect fragile documents. The resin acts as both shield and showcase, protecting delicate fibers while allowing full visibility.

Understanding Paper Types and Resin Compatibility

Not all papers respond identically to resin. Weight, coating, and fiber content determine success rates.

Cardstock and heavy papers (110+ lb) offer the best results because their density resists warping. Glossy magazine pages require less sealing since their coating already provides some protection. Tissue paper and vellum demand multiple sealing coats but create stunning translucent effects when done properly.

Avoid thermal fax paper and receipts—the heat from resin curing causes the print to vanish completely. The chemicals in thermal paper react poorly to epoxy, leaving you with blank pages.

Preparing Paper for Resin Embedding

Preparation makes or breaks your project. Rushing this stage guarantees disappointment.

Sealing the surface creates a waterproof barrier between paper fibers and liquid resin. Multiple thin coats work better than one thick application. Each layer needs complete drying time—typically 30 minutes to 2 hours depending on your sealant.

Choose your weapon from three main sealant options. Mod Podge remains the popular choice for beginners because it applies easily and dries clear. Acrylic medium or varnish offers professional-grade results with minimal yellowing. White glue diluted with water (50/50 ratio) provides a budget-friendly alternative that works surprisingly well.

Apply sealant with a soft foam brush to avoid brush strokes. Work from center to edges, pushing out air bubbles as you go. Let the first coat dry completely before adding the next. Front and back both need sealing—liquid resin finds every unsealed edge.

Step-by-Step Process for Embedding Paper

The sequence matters as much as the materials.

Step 1: Seal your paper using your chosen method. Apply 2-4 thin coats, allowing complete drying between applications. Hold the paper up to light—any translucent spots need additional coverage.

Step 2: Prepare your mold or surface. Clean thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol. Even invisible fingerprints create imperfections. Apply mold release if using silicone molds.

Step 3: Mix resin according to manufacturer instructions. Measure precisely—off-ratio mixing causes sticky disasters that never cure. Stir slowly for the recommended time, scraping sides and bottom. Let the mixed resin sit for 3-5 minutes to release trapped air bubbles.

Step 4: Pour a thin base layer. This layer should be just enough to cover your mold bottom—approximately 1/8 inch thick. Use a heat gun or torch to pop surface bubbles. Wait until this layer reaches gel stage (tacky but not liquid) before placing your paper.

Step 5: Position your sealed paper on the gelled base layer. Press gently to eliminate air pockets underneath. This gel stage timing prevents floating and shifting—too soon and your paper moves, too late and it won’t adhere.

Step 6: Pour the top layer slowly over your positioned paper. Start from one corner and let resin flow naturally across the surface. Pouring directly onto paper creates trapped air. Use a toothpick to guide resin into tight corners.

Step 7: Remove bubbles with a heat gun held 6-8 inches away, moving constantly. Alternatively, exhale gently over the surface—the CO2 in your breath pops bubbles effectively.

Step 8: Cover and cure according to your resin type. Most epoxy resins need 24-72 hours for full cure. Keep dust and pets away during this vulnerable period.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Even experienced crafters encounter pitfalls. Rushing the sealing process tops the list—unsealed edges absorb resin no matter how many coats cover the flat surfaces. Wrap sealant around every edge.

Skipping the gel stage causes paper to float to the top or shift position. Patience rewards you with precise placement. Set a timer if needed—checking too frequently tempts premature placement.

Overheating while removing bubbles melts or warps sealed paper. Keep heat tools moving and maintain proper distance. Three quick passes work better than one slow sweep.

Using expired or incorrectly mixed resin creates endless problems. Yellowing, incomplete curing, and surface tackiness all stem from chemistry gone wrong. Buy fresh resin from reputable suppliers and follow mixing ratios exactly.

Advanced Techniques for Professional Results

Layering creates dimensional effects impossible with single pours. Place different paper elements at varying depths to build visual interest. Each layer needs proper curing before adding the next.

Embedding between clear layers showcases both sides of translucent papers. Pour base layer, cure, add paper, cure, pour top layer. The paper floats suspended in crystal-clear resin.

Mixing papers with other materials expands creative possibilities. Combine dried flowers, metallic leaf, glitter, and photos in single pieces. Seal each element appropriately—dried botanicals need the same treatment as paper.

Color adjustment compensates for yellowing. Add a tiny amount of white resin dye to your mixture to counteract the natural amber tint of some epoxies. This works especially well for preserving white or light-colored papers.

Safety Considerations and Workspace Setup

Resin fumes require proper ventilation even with “low-odor” formulas. Open windows and use fans to maintain air circulation. Wear nitrile gloves—latex doesn’t protect against epoxy chemicals. Skin sensitization develops with repeated exposure, so protect yourself from the start.

Cover your workspace with plastic sheeting or silicone mats. Resin sticks to everything except these surfaces. Keep paper towels and isopropyl alcohol nearby for immediate cleanup of spills.

Troubleshooting Resin and Paper Projects

Bubbles trapped under paper happen when placement timing misses the gel stage. Prevention beats cure here—proper timing eliminates this issue entirely.

Yellowing over time affects UV-sensitive resins. Choose UV-resistant formulas for pieces exposed to sunlight. Display finished pieces away from direct sun to maintain clarity.

Soft or tacky surfaces after curing indicate mixing problems or incorrect ratios. Unfortunately, no fix exists except scraping and starting over. Measure carefully and mix thoroughly to avoid this heartbreak.

Warped paper despite sealing suggests incomplete coverage or too-thin sealant coats. Add more sealing layers next time, especially on thin papers.

Key Takeaways

• Paper requires thorough sealing on all surfaces and edges before resin application to prevent absorption and warping
• Timing the placement during gel stage ensures paper stays positioned without floating or shifting
• Multiple thin sealant coats protect better than single thick applications across all paper types
• Proper ventilation and skin protection remain essential for safe resin handling
• UV-resistant resin formulas prevent yellowing and maintain clarity in finished pieces

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What happens if you don’t seal paper before putting it in resin?

Unsealed paper absorbs liquid resin immediately, becoming translucent and warped within seconds. Air trapped in paper fibers creates cloudy bubbles throughout your piece that cannot be removed. The paper may also tear or disintegrate as resin saturates the fibers, completely ruining your project.

Can you use photographs in resin projects?

Standard photographs work beautifully in resin when properly sealed. Laser-printed photos require 2-3 sealing coats while glossy inkjet prints need heavier sealing to prevent ink bleeding. Test a corner first—some inks react badly to sealants. Laser prints provide the most reliable results with minimal preparation.

How long should you wait between sealing coats on paper?

Each sealing coat needs 30 minutes to 2 hours for complete drying depending on humidity and sealant type. Mod Podge typically dries in 45-60 minutes while acrylic mediums may need 90 minutes. The surface should feel completely dry to touch with no tackiness before applying the next coat.

What is the best resin type for embedding paper?

Epoxy resin provides the clearest, most durable results for paper embedding projects. Choose UV-resistant formulas to prevent yellowing over time. Art resin and casting resin work better than coating resins because they pour thicker layers without running. Avoid polyester resin—it generates too much heat and warps paper even when sealed.

Why did my paper float to the top of the resin?

Paper floats when placed in liquid resin instead of gel-stage resin. The first layer needs to reach a tacky, semi-solid consistency before adding paper. This typically occurs 20-40 minutes after pouring depending on temperature and resin brand. Touch the surface lightly—if your finger leaves an impression without picking up liquid, the timing is right.

Can you fix bubbles that appear under embedded paper?

Bubbles trapped under paper during embedding cannot be removed after the pour. Prevention requires proper gel-stage timing and gentle pressing during placement. A heat gun applied immediately after placement may coax out bubbles before resin sets, but success isn’t guaranteed. Surface bubbles pop easily with heat applied within the first 10 minutes.

How do you prevent paper edges from absorbing resin?

Wrap sealant around all edges during the preparation stage rather than just coating flat surfaces. Dip thin papers in diluted sealant for complete edge coverage. For thicker cardstock, paint edges separately with 2-3 coats. Check sealed edges by holding paper to light—any translucent spots need additional coverage before resin embedding.