How to Make Soft Plastic Fishing Lures: A Beginner’s Guide

Crafting your own soft plastic fishing lures transforms frustration into freedom. Every angler knows the sting of discovering their go-to bait is out of stock or watching a fish shred a $5 lure on the first strike. Making your own solves both problems while unleashing creative control over colors, shapes, scents, and durability that store-bought options can’t match.

Why Pour Your Own Plastic Lures

The economics alone justify the leap. For roughly $100 in startup costs, you can produce hundreds of custom baits that would cost thousands at retail. Beyond savings, homemade lures offer three decisive advantages: customization freedom (blend any color combination imaginable), bait replacement (never run out of your confidence lure again), and creative satisfaction (the pride of catching fish on something you built with your own hands).

Cost Breakdown

Understanding Plastisol: The Science Behind Softness

Plastisol is a suspension of PVC resin particles floating in liquid plasticizer. At room temperature, it resembles thin milk. Heat it to 325-350°F, and molecular fusion transforms it into the elastic, durable material that mimics prey perfectly.

The magic lies in the chemistry. Higher plasticizer ratios (30-45% of the formula) create softer lures with lifelike action but slightly reduced tensile strength. Adding salt (0-10%) increases density for faster sinking, while epoxidized soybean oil (2-10%) enhances flexibility without compromising durability.

Key Plastisol Properties

• Fusion temperature: Plastisol solidifies only after reaching 325°F minimum
• Reusability: Unused plastic can be remelted repeatedly (though colors may fade after excessive heating)
• Shelf stability: Properly stored plastisol lasts years in liquid form
• No catalysts required: Heat alone triggers the transformation

Essential Materials and Equipment

The Foundation: Choosing Your Mold

Two primary mold types dominate home lure production:

Open Pour Molds work like shallow trays. You pour heated plastisol directly into cavities, creating one-sided lures perfect for worms, grubs, and creature baits. They’re beginner-friendly and require minimal equipment.

Injection Molds feature sealed cavities with a single port. You inject pressurized plastisol using a specialized tool, producing three-dimensional lures with intricate details on all sides. These CNC aluminum molds deliver professional finishes with glossy surfaces that outperform silicone alternatives.

Material Checklist

Required items:

• Plastisol liquid (16-32 oz for starting)
• Lure mold (aluminum for durability, silicone for DIY flexibility)
• Microwave-safe Pyrex measuring cup (dedicated use only)
• Thermometer (reads up to 400°F)
• Heat-resistant gloves
• Safety goggles
• Respirator mask

Optional enhancements:

• Liquid colorants and powder pigments
• Polyester glitter and pearl highlights
• Worm oil (prevents sticking, adds shine)
• Scent additives (though most pros add these to storage bags, not the plastic itself)
• Heat stabilizer (prevents degradation during extended heating)

Step-by-Step: Creating Your First Soft Plastic Lure

Preparation Phase

Shake the plastisol bottle vigorously for 2-3 minutes. Resin particles settle at the bottom during storage; incomplete mixing produces baits that feel too soft or cure improperly. If material stubbornly clings to the bottle bottom, gently squeeze the container’s edges inward to release it.

Prep your workspace in a well-ventilated area. Open windows, run fans, or work outdoors. Heated plastisol releases fumes that irritate respiratory systems and degrade quickly if overheated.

Heating the Plastisol

Pour desired amount into your dedicated Pyrex cup. Never use cookware you’ll later use for food. Microwave in 30-second intervals, stirring between cycles to distribute heat evenly. This prevents surface readings that mask cooler layers beneath.

Monitor temperature obsessively. The golden zone spans 325-350°F. Below 325°F, plastisol won’t fully fuse, leaving baits sticky and weak. Above 375°F risks burning — the plastic discolors, releases acrid smoke, and loses structural integrity. At 350°F, properly heated plastisol turns completely clear with syrupy consistency.

Adding Color and Effects

Introduce liquid colorants before plastisol reaches peak temperature (around 250-300°F works best). Start conservatively — you can always add more, but removing pigment proves impossible. Powder pigments, glitter, and pearl highlights blend in during the final stir once plastisol turns clear.

For dual-color baits, use a blending block or mixing chamber to combine two separately heated batches moments before injection. The “laminate” effect — distinct color layers that don’t fully blend — drives fish wild in certain conditions.

Pouring and Injection Techniques

Open Pour Method:

1. Position mold on heat-resistant surface
2. Pour thin, steady stream into cavities
3. Fill slightly overfull to compensate for settling
4. Let cool 5-10 minutes minimum
5. Demold carefully using a butter knife for leverage

Injection Method:

1. Warm mold slightly (improves detail capture)
2. Load injector with 350°F plastisol
3. Insert nozzle into injection port
4. Apply steady pressure — don’t rush or plastisol creates air pockets
5. “Top off” after 30 seconds as hot plastic draws down into cavities
6. Cool 3-5 minutes before demolding

Curing and Finishing

Submerge completed baits in room-temperature water for 15 minutes. This accelerates curing and prevents warping. Trim excess plastic (called “flash”) with scissors or a sharp blade.

Store finished lures in grip-seal bags with a few drops of worm oil to prevent sticking. Add scent to bags rather than mixing into plastisol — this preserves lure integrity while delivering the attractant fish respond to.

Mold Types: Aluminum vs. Silicone vs. DIY

CNC Aluminum Molds

The industry standard for serious bait makers. Computer-controlled machining creates cavities with microscopic precision, producing lures with glossy, store-quality finishes. Multi-cavity designs let you pour 6-12 baits simultaneously, dramatically increasing production speed.

Pros: Exceptional detail, durability (lasts thousands of pours), professional appearance
Cons: Higher upfront cost ($40-150), requires injector for closed designs

Silicone Molds

Perfect for prototyping or replicating discontinued baits you already own. Build a Lego frame around your sample lure, pour two-part silicone, let cure 24 hours, then slice a fill channel with a sharp knife.

Pros: Reproduces any existing bait, budget-friendly, easy to make
Cons: Shorter lifespan, less detail than aluminum, requires manual mold-holding during pours

Comparison Table

Safety Protocols: Non-Negotiable Rules

Heated plastisol at 325°F causes severe burns on contact. Spills happen faster than reflexes fire. Establish these safety habits before pouring your first bait:

Personal Protection

• Heat-resistant gloves rated to 500°F minimum
• Safety goggles to shield eyes from splashes
• Approved respirator mask (not a cloth mask — plastisol fumes require proper filtration)
• Long-sleeve shirt and pants made from non-synthetic materials (synthetics melt into burns)
• Closed-toe shoes

Environmental Safety

Work in well-ventilated spaces. Garages with open doors, outdoor patios, or workshops with exhaust fans all qualify. Enclosed spaces concentrate fumes that irritate eyes, throats, and lungs.

Never mix water with hot plastisol. The temperature differential causes violent spattering. Keep drinks, cleaning supplies, and moisture sources away from your workspace.

If plastisol accidentally burns (turns dark, emits thick smoke), evacuate immediately. Let the area fully ventilate before re-entering — burned PVC releases toxic compounds.

Equipment Safety

Dedicate specific tools exclusively to lure making. Plastisol residue never fully cleans from porous surfaces. That microwave you heat plastic in? It’s retired from food duty forever.

Store plastisol away from children and pets. While solid baits pose minimal toxicity risk, liquid plastisol and colorants contain industrial chemicals unsuitable for ingestion.

Common Mistakes and Solutions

The Temperature Trap

350°F acts as your North Star. Too many beginners eyeball readiness by checking if plastic “looks clear,” then overshoot target temperature while chasing perfect transparency. Invest in a quality thermometer and trust the numbers over visual cues.

The Mixing Myth

Remelting leftover plastisol seems economical, but repeatedly heating the same batch degrades color vibrancy and structural properties. Limit each batch to 2-3 reheating cycles maximum before discarding.

Advanced Techniques

Laminate Color Combinations

Professional bait makers create two-tone effects using dual injectors. Heat two color batches separately to 325°F, load into paired injectors, then shoot simultaneously into injection molds. The colors flow side-by-side without fully blending, creating natural prey patterns (think watermelon/red flake combinations).

Salt Content Optimization

Adding 5-10% fine salt increases lure density for faster drops through the water column. Pre-dissolve salt in minimal water, then blend thoroughly into plastisol before heating. Excessive salt (above 12%) reduces durability and causes brittleness.

Scent Application Strategy

Most experienced makers skip adding scent during the pour. Moisture from liquid scents compromises plastisol integrity, and heat burns off aromatic compounds. Instead, add 2-3 drops of scent or worm oil to storage bags after baits cure. The plastic absorbs fragrance over 24-48 hours without structural compromise.

Troubleshooting Guide

When Baits Won’t Cure Properly

Check three culprits: undermixed plastisol (settled resin didn’t dissolve), insufficient heating (temperature probe hit a hot pocket while cooler areas stayed below 325°F), or contaminated molds (old release agents or residues interfere with solidification).

Solution sequence:

1. Shake plastisol bottle for full 3 minutes before next batch
2. Stir heated plastic thoroughly before checking temperature
3. Clean molds with isopropyl alcohol between pours

Dealing with Mold Sticking

Properly cured baits still stick to molds sometimes, especially with intricate designs. Worm oil applied sparingly to mold surfaces creates a release layer without contaminating the lure surface. For stubborn releases, place entire mold in freezer for 5 minutes — thermal contraction breaks the seal.

Key Takeaways

• Plastisol-based soft lures require heating to 325-350°F to properly fuse PVC resin with plasticizer, creating the flexible, durable baits fish can’t resist
• Initial investment of $100 produces hundreds of custom lures, paying for itself after just 20-30 store-bought bait purchases
• Safety equipment is mandatory, not optional — heat-resistant gloves, goggles, respirators, and ventilated workspaces prevent serious burns and respiratory irritation
• CNC aluminum molds deliver professional quality and longevity (5,000+ pours), while DIY silicone molds offer budget-friendly prototyping for replicating discontinued favorites
• Temperature control makes or breaks quality — overheating above 375°F burns plastic permanently, while underheating below 325°F leaves baits sticky and weak

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How long does it take to make soft plastic lures from start to finish?

Heating plastisol takes 3-5 minutes, pouring or injecting requires 1-2 minutes, and cooling lasts 5-10 minutes depending on lure thickness. Total time per batch: 10-20 minutes for 6-12 baits. The prep work (gathering materials, mixing colors) adds another 5-10 minutes for first-time sessions but streamlines with experience.

Can I use regular kitchen equipment to make fishing lures?

No. Plastisol residue permanently contaminates cooking equipment. Dedicate a separate microwave, measuring cups, and utensils exclusively to lure making. While solid cured baits pose minimal health risk, liquid plastisol contains PVC resin and plasticizers not intended for food contact. Keep lure-making gear completely separate from culinary tools.

What’s the difference between open pour and injection molds?

Open pour molds feature exposed cavities you fill by pouring from above, creating flat-backed baits like worms and grubs. Injection molds have sealed cavities with ports where you force plastisol under pressure using an injector tool, producing fully three-dimensional lures with details on all surfaces. Injection molds cost more but deliver professional-grade finish quality.

How many times can I reuse and reheat leftover plastisol?

Technically unlimited, but quality degrades after 2-3 heating cycles. Each reheating slightly discolors the plastic and weakens molecular bonds. For best results, heat only the amount you need per session. Store unused liquid plastisol at room temperature (never refrigerate) where it maintains properties for years.

Why does my plastisol turn brown or yellow when heated?

You’ve exceeded 375°F and begun burning the plastic. Burnt plastisol loses elasticity, smells acrid, and produces baits that break easily. Prevent this by heating in 30-second microwave intervals, stirring between cycles, and using a thermometer rather than visual assessment. Add heat stabilizer (0.5-8%) if your microwave runs hot.

Do soft plastic lures need salt, and how much should I add?

Salt is optional but serves specific purposes: increasing density for faster sinking and adding texture that mimics natural prey. Start with 5% salt by weight for general use, increasing to 10% for deep-water applications. Beyond 10%, baits become brittle and lose flexibility. Use fine-grain salt that dissolves more readily than coarse crystals.

What safety gear is absolutely necessary for making lures?

Three items are non-negotiable: heat-resistant gloves rated to 500°F (plastisol at 325-350°F causes severe burns), safety goggles (splashes blind), and an approved respirator mask (heated plastisol releases fumes that irritate respiratory systems). Work in well-ventilated areas — garages with open doors or outdoor spaces. Long sleeves, pants, and closed-toe shoes provide additional protection against accidental spills.