How To Resin Paint

Resin painting is one of those crafts that rewards patience with jaw-dropping results. Whether you’re pouring your first abstract canvas or sealing a custom tabletop, the process feels equal parts science experiment and pure creative freedom. Once you understand how resin behaves — how it flows, cures, and transforms — you stop fighting it and start working with it.

This guide covers everything: materials, prep, technique, troubleshooting, and finishing. No fluff. Just a clear, honest walkthrough that gets you from blank surface to brilliant finish.

What Is Resin Painting?

Resin painting is the art of using epoxy resin — a two-part liquid polymer — as either the primary medium or a topcoat on a painted or decorated surface. When the resin and hardener mix, a chemical reaction begins. The liquid slowly transforms into a glossy, hard, durable layer that protects and amplifies whatever sits beneath it.

Artists use it on canvases, wood panels, tabletops, geode art, and even furniture. The results tend to look like living color trapped under glass — which is exactly why resin art has exploded in popularity over the past decade.

Materials You’ll Need Before Starting

Getting your materials right is half the battle. Showing up underprepared is like starting a road trip on an empty tank.

Always buy artist-grade epoxy resin, not hardware store versions. Craft-grade resins are formulated for clarity, UV resistance, and compatibility with pigments — hardware resins often yellow and cloud over time.

Safety First: What You Must Know

Resin isn’t dangerous if you respect it. But skip the precautions and you’ll regret it.

• Always wear nitrile gloves — resin causes skin sensitization with repeated exposure
• Work in a ventilated space — fumes from uncured resin are irritating and potentially harmful
• Use a respirator mask, not just a dust mask, especially during mixing and pouring
• Keep resin away from open flames — it’s flammable before it cures
• Dispose of uncured resin carefully — let leftover resin cure completely before throwing it in the trash; never pour it down the drain

Think of uncured resin like raw chemistry. Treat it with the same casual respect you’d give a hot stove — awareness, not fear.

How To Resin Paint: Step-by-Step

Step 1 — Prepare Your Surface

Your surface needs to be clean, dry, and level. Any dust, oil, or moisture will create adhesion problems or cloudiness in the final piece.

• Wipe canvas or wood with a lint-free cloth
• For wooden panels, seal the surface first with a thin coat of resin or gesso to prevent air bubbles from escaping the wood (this is called “outgassing”)
• Place your surface on a level table — use a spirit level to confirm it’s perfectly flat
• Elevate the canvas on small cups or foam blocks so excess resin can drip off the edges cleanly

Step 2 — Measure Your Resin

This step is non-negotiable. Mixing ratios matter enormously. Most artist-grade epoxy resins use a 1:1 ratio by volume (equal parts resin and hardener), but some use 2:1 or other ratios. Always check your specific product’s instructions.

• Use graduated mixing cups for precision
• Measure resin and hardener separately before combining
• Never eyeball the ratio — even slight imbalances lead to tacky, soft, or uncured spots

Step 3 — Mix Thoroughly

Pour one component into the other and stir with slow, deliberate strokes. This is where patience pays off.

• Stir for a minimum of 3–4 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the cup
• Avoid whipping air into the mix — stir slowly in a figure-eight motion
• The mixture will start clear and slightly cloudy, then become crystal clear as it’s fully combined
• Transfer the mixed resin to a fresh cup and stir again for 1–2 minutes — this ensures nothing unmixed clings to the original cup’s walls

Step 4 — Add Color

Here’s where creativity takes the wheel.

• Add fluid acrylic paints, alcohol inks, or resin pigment pastes to small portions of mixed resin
• Use a maximum of 6–8% colorant by volume — too much pigment inhibits curing
• Alcohol inks create vibrant, cell-like effects and blend beautifully in resin
• Mica powder adds metallic shimmer
• Stir each colored portion gently but thoroughly

You can also keep a portion of resin clear to use as a background or for layering effects.

Step 5 — Pour and Spread

Now the magic begins.

• Pour your clear resin base coat onto the surface first, spreading it to the edges with a palette knife or gloved hand
• Then pour colored resin portions in the pattern you want — drizzles, puddles, stripes, or swirls
• Use a palette knife, silicone spatula, or straw to guide color across the surface
• Tilt the canvas gently to let resin flow naturally — this creates organic, fluid patterns you can’t replicate with a brush

Step 6 — Remove Bubbles

Bubbles form during mixing and pouring. Removing them gives you that signature glass-smooth finish.

• Pass a torch or heat gun quickly over the surface — the heat pops bubbles almost instantly
• Hold the flame 4–6 inches above the surface and keep it moving — never linger in one spot
• Alcohol in alcohol inks evaporates quickly under heat, which also helps cells and lacing patterns form
• Repeat every 5–10 minutes for the first 30–45 minutes as new bubbles rise

Step 7 — Create Effects (Optional)

Resin rewards experimentation. A few popular techniques:

Step 8 — Cover and Cure

This step requires nothing from you — just willpower to leave it alone.

• Cover the piece loosely with a cardboard box or dust tent to prevent debris falling onto the wet surface
• Allow the resin to cure at room temperature (70–77°F / 21–25°C) for 24–48 hours before touching
• Full chemical hardness takes 72 hours for most resins
• Don’t move the piece for at least 12 hours — disturbing it while it’s setting causes uneven surfaces

Common Resin Painting Mistakes and How to Fix Them

Even experienced artists hit snags. Knowing what goes wrong — and why — saves you a ruined piece.

Layering Resin: Building Depth and Dimension

One of resin’s most powerful qualities is its ability to create optical depth through layering — like looking down into a coral reef.

• Let each layer cure to a gel stage (roughly 4–8 hours, depending on the resin) before adding the next
• Pour subsequent layers while the previous one is still slightly tacky — this creates a chemical bond between layers
• If the previous layer has fully hardened, lightly sand it with 220-grit sandpaper and wipe clean before adding a new coat
• Embedding objects like dried flowers, gold leaf, or stones between layers produces a 3D encapsulation effect

The golden rule of layering: never rush the cure time. Impatience here is the most common cause of delamination and cloudy layers.

How To Resin Paint on Different Surfaces

On Canvas

Canvas is the most forgiving surface for beginners. Use a cradle wood panel rather than a stretched canvas for heavy pours — too much resin weight can sag the fabric in the center.

On Wood

Seal the wood first. Raw wood is porous and will release trapped air as bubbles through your resin. Apply a seal coat of mixed resin and let it cure fully before the main pour.

On Furniture and Tabletops

These require more resin volume and a thorough surface prep. Sand to 120–220 grit, clean completely, and consider a primer coat for maximum adhesion. Furniture-grade epoxy resins are thicker and more durable than canvas resins.

On Previously Painted Surfaces

Make sure the underlying paint is completely dry and cured — not just surface dry. Acrylic paint is generally resin-compatible; oil paint requires longer curing before resining over it.

Finishing and Displaying Your Resin Art

After full cure, your piece deserves a proper finish.

• Sand any drips on the edges with 220–400-grit wet sandpaper for a clean profile
• Apply a final seal coat if the surface has any dull patches or imperfections
• Polish with a resin-safe polish or automotive compound for an even higher gloss
• UV-protective varnish adds an extra layer of longevity for pieces displayed in bright rooms
• Hang canvases with appropriate weight-rated hardware — resin adds significant weight

Key Takeaways

• Measure precisely — the resin-to-hardener ratio determines whether your piece cures properly or stays sticky forever
• Slow, thorough mixing eliminates most bubble and curing problems before they start
• Level your surface before every pour — resin follows gravity faithfully and won’t forgive an uneven table
• Torch lightly and often in the first 45 minutes to maintain a bubble-free surface
• Patience during curing is the single most overlooked step — touching or moving resin too soon ruins more pieces than any technique error

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How long does resin paint take to dry completely?
Most artist-grade epoxy resins reach a touch-dry state within 24 hours and full hardness within 72 hours. However, complete chemical curing can take up to 7 days for maximum scratch and heat resistance. Avoid placing objects on your piece until that full cure window passes.

Can you use regular acrylic paint in resin?
Yes — fluid acrylics work best in resin because they blend without adding too much volume. Avoid heavy-body acrylics, which can introduce air pockets and inhibit curing. Keep your colorant at or below 6–8% of total resin volume to prevent soft or tacky spots.

Why is my resin painting still sticky after 24 hours?
A sticky resin surface usually means incorrect mixing ratios or insufficient stirring time. If one component dominates, the chemical reaction can’t complete properly. Sand the tacky areas lightly, wipe clean, and pour a fresh, properly mixed seal coat over the top to rescue the piece.

What is the best resin for beginners doing resin art?
Beginners do best with a self-leveling, low-viscosity artist epoxy resin that has a longer working time (30–45 minutes). Brands formulated for art use are typically UV-resistant and crystal clear. Avoid construction or industrial epoxies — they’re formulated for strength, not clarity or color compatibility.

Can you resin paint over an existing oil painting?
You can, but oil paintings must be fully cured — which can take several months for thickly applied oil paint. Applying resin over incompletely cured oil paint traps solvents beneath the surface, leading to cloudiness, adhesion failure, or yellowing over time. When in doubt, wait longer.

How do you get cells and patterns in resin art?
Cells form when materials of different densities interact — typically when silicone oil is added to colored resin poured over a base coat of different density. Applying gentle heat from a torch accelerates the process by lowering surface tension and encouraging the lighter silicone-infused resin to rise. A few drops go a long way.

Is resin painting safe to do indoors?
Resin painting indoors is safe as long as the space is well-ventilated — open windows, run a fan, and always wear a respirator mask rated for organic vapors. Uncured resin emits VOCs (volatile organic compounds) that can cause respiratory irritation with prolonged exposure. Once fully cured, epoxy resin is considered inert and safe to handle without protection.